NEW YORK GOES COUCOU
New York City has seen plenty of out-of-town celebrity chefs try to win over its jaded, skeptical restaurant-goers, only to fail miserably.
Not so Daniel Rose, who made his name at Paris’ Spring and La Bourse et La Vie before opening Le Coucou in Manhattan last year. The ingenuity that won Rose such a devoted following among Parisians is on vivid display at Le Coucou. His menu takes French-inspired creations and gives them a regional New York spin, as in the anguille frite au sarrasin: buckwheat fried eel fished off the coast of Montauk in Long Island, and served with vinaigrette au curry. Every dish, like his veal tongue with American caviar and crème fraiche, shows off his deft way with sauces and bold flavors. The intimate brick-lined dining room is a fitting stage for Rose’s endlessly alluring cuisine.